Who Wore It Better? Queen Elizabeth I’s Wired Veil & Ruff


It seems to be practically de rigeur to include a wired veil and a huge standing ruff in any of Queen Elizabeth I’s movie costumes.

Ruffs are a relatively common Elizabethan accessory — starting with a small pleated frill in the first half of the 16th century, and ending the century huge and dramatic. Late in the 16th century, a wired veil was sometimes added for even more drama — a floating, wire-supporting, standing, unpleated, frequently-heart-shaped, collar-y thing that stands up from the wearer’s shoulders and are often worn under a ruff. They were popular in the very late 16th century and early 17th century, at least in England.

Almost every screen Bess has a huge ruff and wired veil. Notable exceptions being Cate Blanchett the first time around in Elizabeth and Queenie from Blackadder. Queen Elizabeth I’s movie costumes are noted for their bling, and the wired veil IS a really cool item. It totally does its job of making Good Queen Bess look regal and goddess-like!

Most costume designers seem to be drawing on these two portraits of Queen Elizabeth I:

The Hardwick Hall portrait of Elizabeth I, 1592.

The Hardwick Hall portrait of Elizabeth I, 1592.


The “Ditchley Portrait” of Queen Elizabeth I by Gheeraerts, c. 1592

In order to answer one of the more vexing questions of our age, we ask you:

Which Queen Elizabeth I wore her wired veil and huge ruff best?


[yop_poll id=”1″]


About the author



Kendra has been a fixture in the online costuming world since the late 1990s. Her website, Démodé Couture, is one of the most well-known online resources for historical costumers. In the summer of 2014, she published a book on 18th-century wig and hair styling. Kendra is a librarian at a university, specializing in history and fashion. She’s also an academic, with several articles on fashion history published in research journals.

4 Responses

  1. Loren

    Helen Mirren. It’s not my era, so I can’t speak to accuracy, but they seem right and look beautiful instead of silly like some of the others.

  2. Lisa

    Let’s give Glenda Jackson and designer Elizabeth Waller for doing it on a BBC TV series budget!

  3. Karinne

    The second image of Judi Dench for the size, angle and ratio of the wired veil and ruff. Then Glenda Jackson.

    I must admit a soft spot for the Bete Davis version, more Italianate than Elizabethan, but still a lovely frock.