Somebody in British costume-making has a thing for one particular collar style. I’m calling it a “falling collar,” if you’ve got a better name for it, let me know! But this particular style of folded collar keeps coming up in late 18th century-set films and TV shows, including Poldark, Love and Friendship, and The Scandalous Lady W.
Now, I think it’s a pretty design element! But it’s one I’ve never seen in the period, in either extant garments, fashion plates, or portraits, so I’d be VERY interested to know if anyone has seen it before. And it Just Keeps Coming Up!
I first noted it when watching The Scandalous Lady W (2015), when I, 1) admired Natalie Dormer‘s fabulous stripey redingote, and 2) thought she was rewearing the same dress as worn by Harriet Ballard in Poldark and Lyndsey Marshal in Garrow’s Law:
Then we were incredibly chuffed, to use the British term, to have The Scandalous Lady W‘s costume designer — the faaaabulous James Keast — pop up in the comments of our review to sort us out:
I would like to let you all know that the striped moire costume Lady W wears in the courtroom is NOT the same as the costume in Poldark or Gallows Law [he means Garrow’s Law], it was made especially for Natalie for the courtroom scenes, The fabric is from the same company but a different colour, The hat was made especially to match the hat. (I will say the costume maker also made the other costume for Gallows Law).
SO! Different garments — I originally thought the Poldark dress was a jacket, but now I’m not so sure:
I’m having a hard time spotting the color difference versus The Scandalous Lady W — maybe it’s slightly darker?
THEN, I started spotting the collar on totally different costumes! Like on another, solid redingote on Garrow’s Law:
And then remembered there’s ANOTHER redingote-type costume with the same collar style in The Scandalous Lady W:
And then I discovered this had been reworn by Chloe Sevigny as Alicia in Love and Friendship:
And on Poldark, by Heida Reed as Elizabeth:
So, what I want to know is, who is the costume maker out there that is in love with this collar, and do they have a period source? Are there any other examples of this collar style out there in movies or TV?
And, since this is a Who Wore It Best post, let us answer the incredibly vital question: